Vernal Pool: More Mesa boasts six major habitats. One of the most interesting and varied areas are Wetlands. And while there are several types of Wetland areas on More Mesa, the most remarkable of these is the unassuming Vernal Pool on the southeast corner. Vernal Pools, very special and fast disappearing wetlands, are seasonal pools that fill with winter rainwater, and then dry out gradually thru the Spring and early Summer. These wetlands are a special kind of ecosystem. They form as a result of a distinctive climate, topography, and soil, and are distinguished by the organisms within them. The climate must have mild winter temperatures and a summer drought, a “Mediterranean climate”; such as is found in Southern California. In addition, the pool must be a shallow depression that will catch water from winter rains and have soil with an impermeable layer (think clay), to ensure that the water will remain in the pool.

Actually, the physical conditions in a vernal pool provide a particular habitat for some plant and animal species that can survive nowhere else. This annual cycle of flooding and drying creates an environment where few species can survive. However, these unassuming pools manage to support a variety of rare water plants and other organisms. When the pool is full in winter, many animals flourish – aquatic insects, zooplankton, frogs and water birds.
(Can you find the three ducks in the photo?)

Our own Vernal Pool was studied extensively the last time it partially filled, in Spring of 2019, and was subsequently identified as the most prolific Vernal Pool in all of the Goleta Valley. This year’s pool is now more like a lake than a pool, and the rainy season does not appear to be over yet. THANK GOODNESS!

To learn more about Vernal Pools, and why the rare ones that remain are so very important, read about these unusual and special wetlands here on our website.

More About Water Beyond the Channel Islands: Almost all visitors to More Mesa enter from the North (see map) and proceed south to the coast for magnificent views of our beautiful Channel Islands. On clear days you can see all four of the Northern Channel Islands and some, or all, of Santa Cruz is almost always visible. Ever wonder what, exactly, is the next land mass you would encounter if you continued south on same line of longitude?

Finished guessing? The answer is that the first land you would encounter is Antarctica!

The Pacific is a LARGE and open ocean, and we here in Santa Barbara, get to live on a tiny southward-facing piece of land in the North Pacific. It is called the California Bight. Living in the California Bight means that signs reading “Highway 101 North”, or “Highway 101 South” are completely wrong … at least when you are traveling through Santa Barbara. I became acutely aware of the consequences of the California Bight when I was once explaining how Gray Whales travel through our channel. At that point, a visitor in the audience blurted out “That’s why the sun was setting in the wrong place last night!” Happily, he left the lecture assured that the sun always sets in the right place.

The next landfall after the Channel Islands is Antarctica!

What happening with the Coastal Bloom? In years when “normal” rainfall and temperatures occur, a fantastic wildflower show happens on the eastern coast of More Mesa in mid to late January. This is the bloom of the native California Brittlebrush, a member of another More Mesa habitat, the Coastal Sage plant community. In the daisy family, the Brittlebrush’s solitary flower head has 15 to 25 bright yellow ray florets around a center of protruding yellowish to purplish brown disc florets.

While this species is drought tolerant, it definitely does not like cold and frost … and this has been a very cold, very wet, winter. One can easily understand that the combination of many years of drought followed by a cold winter has been extremely hard on them. Buds have remained stubbornly closed and flowers were definitely reluctant to appear. However, this last week they have made an appearance, and are well into their fabulous show as I write this post. Although they are about 2 months late, better late than never! Enjoy the bloom along with the butterflies, bees and other insects who live off the pollen of this very special plant. They are even more grateful than we are that the blossoms have finally arrived!

Please Cherish More Mesa! The pandemic, and its associated lockdown, has brought some good things to More Mesa and some not-so-good, things. Because many gathering places … gyms, theatres, airports, planes, restaurants, bars etc. were closed or unavailable, unhappy people discovered More Mesa. Many of them became enthralled with the beauty and diversity of this place and have acted accordingly to keep it that way.

But on the Flip Side, these new folks included many, many bicyclists … some with motorized bikes (not allowed on More Mesa), walkers and people who were just plain bored. Many of these folks were not familiar with how to cherish a beautiful open space, so they decided to change it to suit their own particular needs. Bicylists and walkers cut new trails just a few feet from old trails; trails that go to exactly the same place! These thoughtless decisions have created several times as many trails as there were in 2020. PLEASE DON’T CUT NEW TRAILS! More Mesa’s birds and animals don’t need any more trails. (Note that the aerial photo in a previous section above, was taken 20 years ago. We now have at least three times as many trails … almost all of which are unnecessary!)

And Even Worse: For example, the main trail on the east side is easily three times as wide as it was previously. So is the main east-west trail near the coast. Further, if you walk these uneven and bumpy trails now, you will also discover some extremely deep and wide ruts in a dozen or more places. These ruts were not made by joy riders who like to slop around in the mud, but by large fire trucks summoned to More Mesa the day after the most horrific rain storm we have had in decades.

Was there a fire on More Mesa? No, there wasn’t. The fire department was summoned to More Mesa to rescue a dog that had gone over the cliff. Because there was so much rain the day before, the trails were extremely muddy and had even created ponds in several places. As a result, two heavy fire trucks became stuck in the mud, and in several places. Further, because there were so many emergencies to take care of the day after the storm, all other fire trucks that could have helped rescue the two stuck vehicles, were already occupied. It took the fireman many, many hours to get the trucks out and the whole episode left a real mess on two main trails. (Needless to say, those trucks were also not available to take care of other emergencies that whole afternoon.)

You might say that it is terrible that the dog went over the cliff. And it is. But that happens all too frequently. And it happens because a surprisingly large number of dog owners refuse to keep their pets on a leash, and very often let them run wild on the coast.
PLEASE PUT A LEASH ON YOUR DOG AND REMIND OTHER DOG OWNERS TO DO THE SAME, ESPECIALLY AT THE COAST!

Be Careful: Finally, another cautionary tale about the coast. The two types of shales that make up the coastline of More Mesa are extremely unstable. (The giant sinkhole on this photo opened in 2017 and will not be with us for long.) Rough estimates are that the coastline recedes back toward the mountains at about a foot a year. That means that the coastal trail is very dangerous, especially after a rain storm. Use the next trail over to the north. Unhappily, it’s only about 3 feet away.
Love this magical place. Please don’t destroy it.
Many thanks to Chris Brems and Erik Olson for the beautiful photos in this post.

‌

Face It, It’s Been Bleak!

You may have noticed that we have not been very prolific in the “Update” department. And although the word “bleak” still comes to mind all too often, I think there are definite glimmers of hope. Among all the big problems is the one facing California and many parts of the west; the drought! Happily, More Mesa appeared to be taking that one in its stride … until recently. If you remember the last update (in early spring) we explored the chain of events that occurs in open spaces as a result of drought. That chain is: no rain means fewer grasses and much fewer seeds. Since rodents primarily eat seeds, there will then be fewer rodents. Finally, what is the primary food for the raptors on More Mesa? That would be rodents. As a result of this unhappy train of events, the kite population completely disappeared from More Mesa in the early part of 2022. All through the decades we have been watching our beloved kites, this has NEVER happened. Indeed, the situation was so grave that kites disappeared from the entire Goleta Valley.

How Could This Possibly Happen? We all know the drought is bad, but that bad? My initial look at the severity of the drought came from a paleontologist at Berkeley who grew up here in Santa Barbara. Professor B. Lynn Ingram provided historical context for the current drought. By measuring tree ring patterns throughout the Western United States, Professor Ingram and co-authors determined that the last drought of this severity occurred in AD 1580.

Worst drought in 500 years? That sounded ridiculous … until I read a more recently published study from a group at UCLA who contend that 500 years is not the correct number. Specifically, they report, “California and the American West, for much of the past two decades ranks as the driest 22-year period in at least 1,200 years.” Indeed, as I rummaged through articles on the collapse of the populous cities of the fabulous Mayan culture, I noted that drought and overpopulation ranked among the top reasons the Mayan culture collapsed. And one final conclusion of all these researchers, “Climate change, which is leading to increasing temperatures, is making the current dry period even more severe than it otherwise would have been”.

Amazingly Good News! So why are we writing now? WE ACTUALLY HAVE SOME REALLY GOOD NEWS. Kites have returned to More Mesa! At least two kites have been seen repeatedly on the west side of More Mesa and another bird on the east side as well. In addition, there appears to be another pair at Lake Los Carneros, as well as glimmers of hope for a larger population when we get some rain.

Lots of Humidity Brought Another More Mesa Surprise: Because More Mesa never disappoints, it offered up yet another treasure rarely seen here. The fogs and high humidity we experienced in September and October encouraged a new organism to appear, a fungi. Fungi are not plants, but a group of spore-producing organisms (molds, yeasts, toadstools and mushrooms) that have cell walls and feed on organic matter. Classic mushrooms have a “plant-like” form with a stem and cap above ground and most of the organism, called the mycelium, below. The mycelium is a network of threads, hyphae, that live underground and are responsible for “feeding” the fungi.)
And for the first time in many decades of visiting More Mesa, we were fortunate enough to observe a rare resident of More Mesa, one that usually lives underground, a mushroom called “Sulphur Shelf” or “Chicken of the Woods”. This giant mushroom has an almost invisible “pseudo-stem” and a gloriously colored cap. The cap has small pores containing the spores on the underside instead of the traditional “gills” that we find in most mushrooms. (Spores provide a means of reproduction, dispersal and survival in poor conditions.)

Sulfur Shelf, or Chicken of the Woods

Where Are they? Mycelium of the Chicken of the Woods lives in, and feeds on, decomposing material all year round, whereas the beautiful mushroom we see above occasionally is just an outward representation (the fruit), and not necessarily an essential function for the fungus. Sulphur Shelf feeds on, and helps to decompose wood, so you will find it growing on dead trees, fallen logs, and stumps. (You may also, on occasion, find it on a live tree, where it behaves like a parasite and causes the wood to rot, eventually killing the tree.) At certain times Sulfur Shelf may also try to reproduce from spores released from the underside of the mushroom cap.

Because this organism is feeding on decomposing wood, the mushroom will be found at a specific location, over and over, until all the decaying material is gone. So, when you find one, remember where it was and look for it in the fall, at exactly that same place!

California has Two Subspecies of Its Very Own: Sulphur Shelf is found primarily in North America and Europe and has many, many subspecies. Indeed, as recent as 20 some years ago, two species were identified as specific to California; one that grows on conifers and one that grows on eucalyptus. Think Northern California and Southern California. It then follows that since we have so many eucalyptus on More Mesa, many of which are dying, dead or rotting, several Sulphur Shelf, (scientific name: Laetiporus gilbertsonii ); have appeared. The subspecies on More Mesa, like other Sulphur Shelf species, are very large mushrooms. However, ours are not as big as a member of another subspecies found in Great Britain. That mammoth specimen weighed 100 pounds! Ours are, however, quite large and very beautiful … with their striped, white, yellow and orange multiple layers; often piled high, one on top of another.

Edible? While many sources will tell you that these mushrooms are edible, caution is advised. Sources warn that the specimens not only have to be very new, but that whatever else you consume with the mushroom may determine the effect the whole meal may have on your digestive system. Suffice to say, BE CAREFUL!
‌

It is the mission of the More Mesa Preservation Coalition to preserve More Mesa, in its entirety, for all time. We’ve been at it for almost 22 years.

Valerie Olson, president MMPC

‌
Many thanks to Chris Brems who captured the beautiful photo of the Sulfur Shelf on More Mesa.

Another Christmas Present?

A long and event-filled Christmas day had one more surprise in store for Santa Barbara. About 9 PM, rain, and a very short “tornado-like” event whirled through a small section of Santa Barbara from Hollister Avenue to the coast. Its terrific and noisy wind caused flickering lights and, in less than a minute, it was over. Some small damage was reported in the news. But those venturing out onto More Mesa the next morning were in for a big surprise. A very large, and mostly dead, coastal eucalyptus had fallen. The debris covered large sections of two major trails, and looking at its shallow root system it was a miracle it had not fallen a long time ago!

Treasure in Disguise: Branches that were dangerous were cut and the rubble carted away. Remarkably the whole scene now had tremendous potential. There were stumps and portions of the tree where one could sit and marvel at the 360°view. Talks and stories were now possible at this grand new gathering place. Youngsters also discovered that the whole area resembled a wonderful natural playground; one that was not plastic, colored purple, orange or blue, and possessed many paths to move around the various branches.

Science Too: Cuts made to arrange the tree in a stable resting position, not only created little stools, but presented an interesting and fascinating experiment. Maybe we could “read” the tree rings. If one knows how to do this you can determine not only the age of the tree, but something about the climate during the lifetime of the tree. This is a science known as “Dendrochronology”.*

Ubiquitous Eucalyptus: Although Eucalyptus trees are everywhere in California, they are not native. Ever wonder how they got here? The answer to that question set me upon a amazing journey. The victim of the “tornado” that hit More Mesa was a Eucalyptus species commonly known as Blue Gum, “blue” because its leaves have a blue cast and “gum” because of a fragrant, sticky, gum-like substance that the tree secretes. This gum contains anti-bacterial properties which make the tree extremely pest-resistant.

How It All Started: Rarely are we able to pinpoint when an invasive species was introduced into California. This is definitely not the case for Tasmanian Blue Gum, Eucalyptus globulus. It seems that “Gold Rush” immigrants, were not happy with the look of our native forests. They wanted an ornamental and decorative tree reminiscent of the forests in their previous homelands. And they wanted it right away! There was also some concern (maybe founded, and maybe not) that firewood was growing scarce.

The Winner: Heeding this hue and cry, a study was commissioned in 1850, one that would suggest a suitable ornamental tree to create the desired forest. Arborists studied many different species, with the Eucalyptus subspecies known as “Tasmanian Blue Gum” finally being selected. Its lure lay in the fact that it was possibly the fastest growing tree on earth, adding 6 feet or more every year (assuming average rainfall) and had little trouble reaching 300 feet in height, even in poor soils. It not only “looked good”, but was destined to do very well in our Mediterranean climate.
Beginning of the Love-Hate Relationship: Seeds were immediately procured from Tasmania, the native habitat of Blue Gum and half a world away from the California coast. Because only seeds, and not plants, were imported, none of the tree’s enemies (pests or pathogens) came along for the ride. The Blue Gum was in heaven and everyone loved it!

The Hate Side of the Coin: Disenchantment in the populace set in by the 1880s. Although Blue Gum had been advertised for use as railroad ties, pier pilings and woodworking, none of these uses were viable, as the wood cracked and split, and poles often rotted underground. The trees were fine for windbreaks but their shallow root systems and subsequent falls soon earned them the dubious title of “widow maker”; not too comforting. The trees adapted well to foggy environments and survived with limited rainfall on the Pacific Coast. However, seeking water, they often drained nearby wells; which did not improve their popularity.

Fire also became a big issue as Blue Gum trees have the highest possible ignition potential and sometimes explode. Flames consuming the peeling bark, also move swiftly up the tree to the top, where embers are carried away to set fire to other parts of the forest.

As far as tidiness goes, the bark strips, leaves and branches that litter the floor of the eucalyptus grove are not only messy, but contain chemicals that inhibit the growth of any other plants, so Blue Gums are a monoculture, and almost always, stand alone!

The Love Side of the Relationship: If you thought the feud between the Hatfields and the McCoys was fierce and long lasting, you would be surprised by the intense Love-Hate relationship that exists with regard to the Blue Gum today. The material above pretty well describes the issues of the population that wishes the Blue Gum would disappear.

However, Blue Gum lovers have arguments for their usefulness. For example, in addition to providing windbreaks, Eucalyptus groves are wintering grounds for the Monarch Butterfly; a handy and effective switch from the native trees that were previously used … until they were chopped down for firewood or boards. Birds like Great Blue Herons, Common Egrets, Snowy Egrets, Double Breasted Cormorants and several species of Owls and Hawks use the Blue Gum for nesting. Even though these conclusions have been offered for several areas in Northern California, many argue that Eucalyptus stands do not provide an equivalent trade-off for the oak woodland and deciduous riparian environments they have replaced. Bottom line: Bird enthusiasts are really split on this issue.

There are also disputes that contend whatever replaces the Blue Gum could be an even worse fire hazard, and that the herbicides used to kill the trees would place harmful poisons into the environment.

Hard Choice: Finally, lovers of Blue Gum are facing some really hard facts. That is, they have to deal with a Blue Gum nemesis. You may recall that the enemies of the Blue Gum did not immigrate to California in the 1850s. But they have finally made it here; 150 years later! Trees are being infested with an aphid-like insect that sucks out plant juices. It is called Blue Gum Lerps. The secretions of these insects are sticky and create an unsightly mess on the trees … and everything else. Lerps love it when the weather is warm and dry, so our 15-year drought is perfect for them. Needless to say, they are thriving!

With many claims and counterclaims, and not too much real science available, the Tasmanian Blue Gum issue is complicated. I personally think the data on the “love side” is well-intentioned, but relatively unsubstantiated. For starters, the issue needs an agreed upon set of facts. And finally, as one Atlantic Monthly author put it, “Until then, the magnificent Tasmanian Blue Gum is, in some sense, a prisoner of dueling realities.”

*Watch for announcements about the Dendrochronlogy Party to be scheduled. At that event, and with the help of an expert, we will attempt to age the tree and look for climate signals as well.

‌
Our many thanks to the photographers who helped with this issue; most especially to Chris Brems.

Happy New Year and Other Treasures!

While our Treasure Hunt series ended last year, I am taking this opportunity to explore some exciting, new and incredibly beautiful treasures More Mesa has begun to present us. These treasures, courtesy of Mother Nature, some of whom have not been seen for many years, are brought to you courtesy of … RAIN!

Drought – Our current series of four back-to-back droughts began in 2006 and, until very recently, continued thru this year. Indeed, most weather experts are now are conceding that while there were brief respites in 2011, 2017 and 2019, we have actually been in “drought mode” for the better part of 15 years. Tree ring experts have also weighed in with what they describe as the worst drought in 300 years. We are all familiar with this bad news. However, we can now rejoice and celebrate a holiday season that has delivered a wonderful gift; the gift of rain!

More Than 10 Inches! As I write, we have recorded more than half of the average yearly rainfall on More Mesa. This means that More Mesa is “greening up” and looking very beautiful! It also means that the Vernal Pool at More Mesa is filling and advertising itself with frog calls that have not been heard for many years.

What is A Vernal Pool? The southeast corner of More Mesa boasts one of the rarest, and most threatened, of all natural communities; a vernal pool. A vernal pool forms as a result of distinctive climate, soil and topography, and is distinguished by the organisms it hosts. Moreover, these critters are ones that are restricted to special habitats that flood temporarily in winter and early spring, but are dry the remainder of the year, and as such, are among the most interesting organisms on earth. In winter the pools reach a maximum and support numerous aquatic insects and zooplankton; including rare and endangered species. In addition, Pacific Tree Frogs breed and lay eggs by the thousands. Vernal pools also provide a winter home for water fowl during the rainy season.

Research Is Important – The rains of 2017 and 2019 created relatively small vernal pools, and frogs were not always in abundance. However, in spite of the scant rainfall in 2019, the pool was was intensively studied and judged the most prolific in the area. The last time the More Mesa’s vernal pool was very large, and contained appreciable water was in winter of 2011, a year when we received 147% of our annual rainfall … ten years ago! To learn even more about these very special, and fast disappearing, places see the Vernal Pool feature on our web site.

More Bounty from Rain – Even with the first small storm, More Mesa has “turned green’ and is getting lush. Its grasses have been quick to begin the cycle of growth that provides seeds as food for small mammals. These mammals can now prosper to become food for the myriad raptors and other critters that make More Mesa their home. There should also be enough to satisfy the young birds that will need to be fed in the Spring. Early rain will also bring on the plants of coastal sage scrub and, most spectacularly, the yellow blanket of California Brittlebush that covers the coast, on and around, the steps leading to the beach. And for upcoming months, rain will bring all the tiny and precious wildflowers that poke up all over More Mesa, and give us yet another, more subtle show.

Heeding Cautionary Tales

We All Fall Down! While storms bring moisture, they are often accompanied by wind. We had just such a storm on Christmas night around 9 PM. When I went for my stroll the next day, I was greeted with the remains of a very old and very large eucalyptus tree that was torn up and placed (not so gently) all over the intersection of the east and coastal trails, and next to the steps to the beach. There is a good reason the eucalyptus is known as the “widow maker”. It is always dangerous to go near them when the wind is blowing, and after a storm.

A Slide into the Sea – A second caution is also important. The two types of shale that make up the cliffs of More Mesa are extremely unstable. Therefore, while it is wise to always keep a sharp eye when using the Coastal Trail, it is equally unwise to even use that trail after a rain! If you have any doubt, look at the sinkhole that opened up after a storm in 2017.
In an echo of our recent Treasure Hunts, take a walk, look at the vernal pool, enjoy the green, look for the flowers and most of all …

HAVE A HAPPY NEW YEAR!