A Love-Hate Relationship

Another Christmas Present?

A long and event-filled Christmas day had one more surprise in store for Santa Barbara. About 9 PM, rain, and a very short “tornado-like” event whirled through a small section of Santa Barbara from Hollister Avenue to the coast. Its terrific and noisy wind caused flickering lights and, in less than a minute, it was over. Some small damage was reported in the news. But those venturing out onto More Mesa the next morning were in for a big surprise. A very large, and mostly dead, coastal eucalyptus had fallen. The debris covered large sections of two major trails, and looking at its shallow root system it was a miracle it had not fallen a long time ago!

December 25th
December 26th

Treasure in Disguise: Branches that were dangerous were cut and the rubble carted away. Remarkably the whole scene now had tremendous potential. There were stumps and portions of the tree where one could sit and marvel at the 360°view. Talks and stories were now possible at this grand new gathering place. Youngsters also discovered that the whole area resembled a wonderful natural playground; one that was not plastic, colored purple, orange or blue, and possessed many paths to move around the various branches.

Science Too: Cuts made to arrange the tree in a stable resting position, not only created little stools, but presented an interesting and fascinating experiment. Maybe we could “read” the tree rings. If one knows how to do this you can determine not only the age of the tree, but something about the climate during the lifetime of the tree. This is a science known as “Dendrochronology”.*


Ubiquitous Eucalyptus: Although Eucalyptus trees are everywhere in California, they are not native. Ever wonder how they got here? The answer to that question set me upon a amazing journey. The victim of the “tornado” that hit More Mesa was a Eucalyptus species commonly known as Blue Gum, “blue” because its leaves have a blue cast and “gum” because of a fragrant, sticky, gum-like substance that the tree secretes. This gum contains anti-bacterial properties which make the tree extremely pest-resistant.

How It All Started: Rarely are we able to pinpoint when an invasive species was introduced into California. This is definitely not the case for Tasmanian Blue Gum, Eucalyptus globulus. It seems that “Gold Rush” immigrants, were not happy with the look of our native forests. They wanted an ornamental and decorative tree reminiscent of the forests in their previous homelands. And they wanted it right away! There was also some concern (maybe founded, and maybe not) that firewood was growing scarce.

The Winner: Heeding this hue and cry, a study was commissioned in 1850, one that would suggest a suitable ornamental tree to create the desired forest. Arborists studied many different species, with the Eucalyptus subspecies known as “Tasmanian Blue Gum” finally being selected. Its lure lay in the fact that it was possibly the fastest growing tree on earth, adding 6 feet or more every year (assuming average rainfall) and had little trouble reaching 300 feet in height, even in poor soils. It not only “looked good”, but was destined to do very well in our Mediterranean climate.
Beginning of the Love-Hate Relationship: Seeds were immediately procured from Tasmania, the native habitat of Blue Gum and half a world away from the California coast. Because only seeds, and not plants, were imported, none of the tree’s enemies (pests or pathogens) came along for the ride. The Blue Gum was in heaven and everyone loved it!

The Hate Side of the Coin: Disenchantment in the populace set in by the 1880s. Although Blue Gum had been advertised for use as railroad ties, pier pilings and woodworking, none of these uses were viable, as the wood cracked and split, and poles often rotted underground. The trees were fine for windbreaks but their shallow root systems and subsequent falls soon earned them the dubious title of “widow maker”; not too comforting. The trees adapted well to foggy environments and survived with limited rainfall on the Pacific Coast. However, seeking water, they often drained nearby wells; which did not improve their popularity.

Fire also became a big issue as Blue Gum trees have the highest possible ignition potential and sometimes explode. Flames consuming the peeling bark, also move swiftly up the tree to the top, where embers are carried away to set fire to other parts of the forest.

As far as tidiness goes, the bark strips, leaves and branches that litter the floor of the eucalyptus grove are not only messy, but contain chemicals that inhibit the growth of any other plants, so Blue Gums are a monoculture, and almost always, stand alone!

The Love Side of the Relationship: If you thought the feud between the Hatfields and the McCoys was fierce and long lasting, you would be surprised by the intense Love-Hate relationship that exists with regard to the Blue Gum today. The material above pretty well describes the issues of the population that wishes the Blue Gum would disappear.

However, Blue Gum lovers have arguments for their usefulness. For example, in addition to providing windbreaks, Eucalyptus groves are wintering grounds for the Monarch Butterfly; a handy and effective switch from the native trees that were previously used … until they were chopped down for firewood or boards. Birds like Great Blue Herons, Common Egrets, Snowy Egrets, Double Breasted Cormorants and several species of Owls and Hawks use the Blue Gum for nesting. Even though these conclusions have been offered for several areas in Northern California, many argue that Eucalyptus stands do not provide an equivalent trade-off for the oak woodland and deciduous riparian environments they have replaced. Bottom line: Bird enthusiasts are really split on this issue.

There are also disputes that contend whatever replaces the Blue Gum could be an even worse fire hazard, and that the herbicides used to kill the trees would place harmful poisons into the environment.

Hard Choice: Finally, lovers of Blue Gum are facing some really hard facts. That is, they have to deal with a Blue Gum nemesis. You may recall that the enemies of the Blue Gum did not immigrate to California in the 1850s. But they have finally made it here; 150 years later! Trees are being infested with an aphid-like insect that sucks out plant juices. It is called Blue Gum Lerps. The secretions of these insects are sticky and create an unsightly mess on the trees … and everything else. Lerps love it when the weather is warm and dry, so our 15-year drought is perfect for them. Needless to say, they are thriving!

With many claims and counterclaims, and not too much real science available, the Tasmanian Blue Gum issue is complicated. I personally think the data on the “love side” is well-intentioned, but relatively unsubstantiated. For starters, the issue needs an agreed upon set of facts. And finally, as one Atlantic Monthly author put it, “Until then, the magnificent Tasmanian Blue Gum is, in some sense, a prisoner of dueling realities.”

*Watch for announcements about the Dendrochronlogy Party to be scheduled. At that event, and with the help of an expert, we will attempt to age the tree and look for climate signals as well.


Our many thanks to the photographers who helped with this issue; most especially to Chris Brems.

Rain… and Happy New Year!

Happy New Year and Other Treasures!

While our Treasure Hunt series ended last year, I am taking this opportunity to explore some exciting, new and incredibly beautiful treasures More Mesa has begun to present us. These treasures, courtesy of Mother Nature, some of whom have not been seen for many years, are brought to you courtesy of … RAIN!

Drought – Our current series of four back-to-back droughts began in 2006 and, until very recently, continued thru this year. Indeed, most weather experts are now are conceding that while there were brief respites in 2011, 2017 and 2019, we have actually been in “drought mode” for the better part of 15 years. Tree ring experts have also weighed in with what they describe as the worst drought in 300 years. We are all familiar with this bad news. However, we can now rejoice and celebrate a holiday season that has delivered a wonderful gift; the gift of rain!

More Than 10 Inches! As I write, we have recorded more than half of the average yearly rainfall on More Mesa. This means that More Mesa is “greening up” and looking very beautiful! It also means that the Vernal Pool at More Mesa is filling and advertising itself with frog calls that have not been heard for many years.

What is A Vernal Pool? The southeast corner of More Mesa boasts one of the rarest, and most threatened, of all natural communities; a vernal pool. A vernal pool forms as a result of distinctive climate, soil and topography, and is distinguished by the organisms it hosts. Moreover, these critters are ones that are restricted to special habitats that flood temporarily in winter and early spring, but are dry the remainder of the year, and as such, are among the most interesting organisms on earth. In winter the pools reach a maximum and support numerous aquatic insects and zooplankton; including rare and endangered species. In addition, Pacific Tree Frogs breed and lay eggs by the thousands. Vernal pools also provide a winter home for water fowl during the rainy season.

Research Is Important – The rains of 2017 and 2019 created relatively small vernal pools, and frogs were not always in abundance. However, in spite of the scant rainfall in 2019, the pool was was intensively studied and judged the most prolific in the area. The last time the More Mesa’s vernal pool was very large, and contained appreciable water was in winter of 2011, a year when we received 147% of our annual rainfall … ten years ago! To learn even more about these very special, and fast disappearing, places see the Vernal Pool feature on our web site.

More Bounty from Rain – Even with the first small storm, More Mesa has “turned green’ and is getting lush. Its grasses have been quick to begin the cycle of growth that provides seeds as food for small mammals. These mammals can now prosper to become food for the myriad raptors and other critters that make More Mesa their home. There should also be enough to satisfy the young birds that will need to be fed in the Spring. Early rain will also bring on the plants of coastal sage scrub and, most spectacularly, the yellow blanket of California Brittlebush that covers the coast, on and around, the steps leading to the beach. And for upcoming months, rain will bring all the tiny and precious wildflowers that poke up all over More Mesa, and give us yet another, more subtle show.

Heeding Cautionary Tales

We All Fall Down! While storms bring moisture, they are often accompanied by wind. We had just such a storm on Christmas night around 9 PM. When I went for my stroll the next day, I was greeted with the remains of a very old and very large eucalyptus tree that was torn up and placed (not so gently) all over the intersection of the east and coastal trails, and next to the steps to the beach. There is a good reason the eucalyptus is known as the “widow maker”. It is always dangerous to go near them when the wind is blowing, and after a storm.

A Slide into the Sea – A second caution is also important. The two types of shale that make up the cliffs of More Mesa are extremely unstable. Therefore, while it is wise to always keep a sharp eye when using the Coastal Trail, it is equally unwise to even use that trail after a rain! If you have any doubt, look at the sinkhole that opened up after a storm in 2017.
In an echo of our recent Treasure Hunts, take a walk, look at the vernal pool, enjoy the green, look for the flowers and most of all …

HAVE A HAPPY NEW YEAR!

April 2016

Mother Nature Does Her Thing, Even with a Record Breaking Drought

In spite of what is shaping up as yet another drought year, More Mesa is green and blooming. In one short walk we spotted Poppies, California Brittlebush, Blue-eyed Grass, Redmaids, Owl’s Clover and Miniature Lupine. Many of these were in profusion and all a joy to look at.

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It’s lovely out there! (To view a list of More Mesa’s wildflowers go to link.)

March 2016

El Niño Rains Haven’t Forgotten Us … They May Just Be Running Late

If you are wondering what happened to the vaunted El Niño,  weather experts have stated that periods of sunny and warm weather are typical even in strong El Niño winters and that there is “No need to be alarmed that El Niño is a bust.”

Over the past several winters, a persistent region of atmospheric high pressure over the far northeastern Pacific Ocean, dubbed by one forecaster as the RRR … Ridiculously Resilient Ridge … prevented storms from reaching us, resulting in our multi-year drought. (Instead moisture laden air was directed to the East Coast where snowfall reached excessive levels.)

Despite the fact that the RRR disappeared this year, another high-pressure ridge, this time off the coast of California prevented storms generated by  El Niño conditions from reaching southern California. High-pressure ridges are the norm in our area, accounting for the dry summers in our Mediterranean climate.

The drought break that Californians have been waiting for all winter is about to arrive: a series of storms bringing loads of rain and snow from the El Niño–fueled Pacific Ocean.

Over the next 10 days, beginning Friday, a series of Pacific storm systems will batter the California coastline, bringing intense tendrils of moisture northeastward from the deep tropical Pacific Ocean where El Niño has juiced the atmosphere’s energy. So far this winter, these storms have been largely directed on the Pacific Northwest, where on Tuesday, Seattle clinched its rainiest winter in history. That energy will now be directed squarely at California.   Link for article

In the longer run, it seems likely that a fairly active weather pattern will continue across California for much of March. And while we all hope for another “March Miracle” (as happened in 1991), precipitation at that level is hard to predict at this point. However, it does appear likely that California’s snowpack will recover to average (or perhaps above average) levels in the coming weeks. It is less clear whether Southern California will be able to make up the seasonal precipitation deficit that has accumulated this year, despite the near record-strength El Niño event in the tropical Pacific. Still, it seems increasingly likely that March will be able to make a dent – even though it’s quite clear that California’s multi-year drought will persist through the summer.

And on the brighter side, optimistic forecasters and modelers remind us that the two biggest El Niños on record, which developed over 1982-83 and 1997-98, brought double the rain and double the snowpack for California. Further, this El Niño is in the same league as those two, and may be even bigger. Frustrating as our “rain year” has been, forecasters offer that we should not be fooled into thinking that El Niño has forsaken us. It’s just “late to the party”. Finally, the El Niño expert and climatologist at JPL has been quoted as saying, “It is not unusual for El Niños, with regard to Southern California rain, to be slow starters … when they hook up, they are fast and furious finishers.”

Keep your fingers crossed!

References:

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February 2016

Caves Are No More

In several previous issues we discussed the dangerous erosion of the cliffs of the various sections of More Mesa. In October of 2014,  an incident where someone was hurt while in a cave on the western side of More Mesa precipitated a discussion of the geology of More Mesa’s cliffs. Specifically, we noted that the east side consists of a very old formation that erodes slowly, while the west, a much younger formation, erodes very quickly. In fact, sea cliff retreat in the this younger formation has been demonstrated to be about 10 inches a year, the highest rate observed along this portion of the South Coast. What this all means is that the western cliff is steep, unstable and unpredictable. At the time we advised everyone to stay out of the caves since they too, were judged unstable, unpredictable and dangerous.

But now they are gone! These very same caves collapsed last week. County firefighters conducted a precautionary search and found no evidence of any victims being trapped during the collapse. Fire Captain Dave Zaniboni issued a warning that it is extremely dangerous now that the bluffs have caved in.

The Good News: Now that the caves have collapsed there is no longer any danger that people inside them will be injured or killed.

The Bad News: Once again, we remind everyone that the cliffs on the edge of More Mesa are UNSTABLE, UPREDICTABLE AND DANGEROUS. Please stay off the trails leading down from More Mesa and take extreme care when using the Coastal Trail. Please be safe!

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